Hakone: The Real-World Tokyo-3
In Neon Genesis Evangelion, the fortress city of Tokyo-3 is built into the mountains above a vast underground facility called NERV headquarters. That mountain setting is Hakone — and the town knows it. For over two decades, Hakone has embraced its EVA identity with themed merchandise, collaboration events, and location markers that make this one of Japan's most rewarding anime pilgrimages.
This route guide follows the Hakone Golden Course, the classic sightseeing loop that takes you from Hakone-Yumoto at the base up through the mountains to Lake Ashi. Along the way, you will pass through the landscapes that inspired NERV HQ, the volcanic terrain of the Angels' battlegrounds, and the lake that sits above it all.
The Golden Course Route
Leg 1: Hakone-Yumoto to Gora (Hakone Tozan Railway)
Begin at Hakone-Yumoto Station, the gateway to the Hakone area. Before boarding the mountain railway, check the station area for the Evangelion Store (location may vary seasonally) selling exclusive Hakone EVA goods — themed snacks, Unit-01 figurines, and collaboration items you cannot find elsewhere.
Board the Hakone Tozan Railway for the scenic climb to Gora (about 40 minutes). This switchback mountain railway zigzags up steep slopes through dense forest. In June, the hydrangeas along the tracks are spectacular. In EVA terms, you are ascending from the surface into the mountain infrastructure surrounding NERV.
Leg 2: Gora to Sounzan (Cable Car)
At Gora, transfer to the Hakone Tozan Cable Car for a 10-minute ride up to Sounzan. The cable car climbs steeply through a residential and forested area. Between Gora and Sounzan, consider a detour to the Hakone Open-Air Museum (one stop from Gora), which features massive outdoor sculptures and has appeared in EVA-related promotional material.
Leg 3: Sounzan to Togendai via Owakudani (Ropeway)
This is the centerpiece of the Golden Course and the most EVA-relevant segment. The Hakone Ropeway carries you in gondolas high above the volcanic landscape of Owakudani (大涌谷, "Great Boiling Valley").
Owakudani is where the EVA atmosphere is strongest. Sulfurous steam rises from vents in the barren, gray-white mountainside. The smell of sulfur fills the air. Jagged rocks and dead trees frame views of distant mountains. It looks like the aftermath of Second Impact.
- Disembark at the Owakudani Station to explore on foot
- Walk the short trail to the active volcanic vents (about 10 minutes)
- Buy and eat a black egg (kuro-tamago) — eggs hard-boiled in the volcanic hot springs, turned black by sulfur. Legend says each one adds 7 years to your life. Price: ¥500 for a bag of 5.
- The Owakudani souvenir shop often stocks EVA collaboration items
Re-board the ropeway and continue to Togendai on the shore of Lake Ashi.
Leg 4: Lake Ashi — Above NERV HQ
In the EVA universe, NERV headquarters and the GeoFront are located deep underground beneath Hakone, with Lake Ashi sitting directly above. Standing at Togendai port and looking across the lake, you are standing above the fictional ceiling of the GeoFront.
Board one of the sightseeing pirate ships (covered by the Hakone Free Pass) for a cruise across the lake. The ships are ornate replicas and the cruise takes about 30 minutes to Hakone-machi or Moto-Hakone. On clear days, Mount Fuji is visible from the deck.
Leg 5: Moto-Hakone and the Torii
At Moto-Hakone, visit Hakone Shrine and its famous red torii gate standing in the waters of Lake Ashi. This is one of the most photographed spots in all of Hakone. Walk the old Tokaido cedar avenue between Moto-Hakone and Hakone-machi for a peaceful, historic forest path.
Completing the Loop
From Moto-Hakone or Hakone-machi, take a Hakone Tozan Bus back down to Hakone-Yumoto (about 40 minutes, covered by the Free Pass). This completes the Golden Course loop. If you have time, stop at one of the many onsen (hot spring baths) in Hakone-Yumoto before heading back to Tokyo.
Timing and Logistics
- Start time: Aim to reach Hakone-Yumoto by 9 AM for a comfortable pace
- Total time: The full Golden Course takes 6 to 8 hours including stops
- Direction: Going clockwise (Yumoto to Gora to Owakudani to Lake Ashi) is the standard and most practical direction
- Weather note: The ropeway closes in high winds or volcanic activity. Check the Hakone Navi website on the morning of your visit.
- EVA stamp rally: Hakone periodically runs EVA-themed stamp rallies at stations and attractions along the Golden Course. Check for current events before your trip.
Best Seasons for This Route
- Autumn (November): Spectacular foliage along the mountain railway and around the lake
- Winter (December to February): Clearest Fuji views from Lake Ashi, fewer crowds, but cold at altitude
- Summer (July to August): Lush greenery but possible clouds hiding Fuji and the ropeway views